Why was horsehair used in mourning jewellery?

Three reasons. Material density: horsehair is markedly thicker and stiffer than human hair - plaited and woven work in horsehair holds its shape better and is more durable. In large-volume pieces (long necklaces, bracelets with a central medallion), horsehair was therefore technically better suited. Material availability: horsehair was cheap and available at any time; human hair had to be collected - either directly within the family or bought at market. Mixing of materials: in many pieces a mixture of horsehair and human hair was worked - a thin layer of the deceased person's human hair visible on the outside, a stabilising layer of horsehair at the core.

How is horsehair distinguished from human hair?

With the naked eye often difficult; under the microscope unambiguous. Horsehair is markedly thicker (150–300 µm) than human hair (50–100 µm), has a more scaly surface and no continuous medulla. Human hair is finer, softer and has a loose or interrupted medulla. With antique mourning jewellery pieces made of hairwork it is worth having a microscopic examination in cases of doubt - also in order to assess the state of preservation.

Are horsehair pieces still made today?

Yes, in a small niche. In Sweden (Våmhus, Dalarna) the tagel tradition is continued as a regionally preserved craft; individual workshops plait horsehair bracelets, necklaces and rings after historical patterns. In France there are isolated cheveliers who work with horsehair. In Germany and Austria the tradition has largely died out, but survives as a restoration craft for historical pieces. In the memorial jewellery market horsehair is occasionally used for equestrian memorial pieces - a lock from the tail of a deceased horse as the material for a memorial bracelet.

Horsehair (Crin de Cheval)

Horsehair - above all from the manes and tails of slaughtered horses - was in the 18th and 19th centuries an important material for woven and plaited mourning jewellery elements, used by French cheveliers and Swedish workshops to imitate and supplement the more expensive hairwork.

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