How does niello differ from black enamel?

Three important differences. Material: niello is a sulphur-metal alloy (typically silver, copper and lead with sulphur), whereas black enamel is a glass-based material. Heat: niello melts at a markedly lower temperature (around 450–550 °C) than enamel (around 750–850 °C), which makes it easier to work. Appearance: niello is a deeper, matter black with a slight metallic sheen; black enamel is glossier and more glass-like. In Victorian mourning jewellery, niello was often used as a cheaper alternative to black enamel.

On which materials is niello used?

Chiefly on silver (sterling silver 925 or purer). On gold niello is rarer, because gold is softer and the fine engraved lines can easily run during fusing. On silver-plated metals and on rolled gold (a gold layer over a base metal) niello is possible, but technically demanding. In the Russian Tula style, niello is executed almost exclusively on silver; in the Italian and Byzantine traditions niello on gold also occurs.

Which pieces of jewellery were made in niello?

In the Russian Tula style, above all cigarette cases, snuffboxes, jewellery caskets, icon mounts and religious pendants. In the Western European mourning-jewellery tradition, mourning rings, memento mori pendants, simple mourning brooches and small keepsakes. Niello mourning rings are a distinct category - usually silver rings with an inscription (a date of death, initials, a memento mori sentence) engraved and filled with niello on the inside and outside.

Is niello still used today?

In a small workshop niche, yes, but practically not in mourning jewellery. Specialist silversmithing workshops in Russia (Tula, Veliky Ustyug), Italy (Florence, Rome), Spain (Toledo) and the German-speaking countries carry out niello commissions - mostly as a historicising gesture for special orders or as restoration work on antique pieces. In the mainstream jewellery market and in modern memorial jewellery the technique has practically disappeared.

Niello (Black Inlay Technique)

Niello is an ancient jewellery-finishing technique in which engraved lines on silver or gold are filled with a black sulphur-metal alloy - the result is a deep dark line drawing on a light ground, used in memento mori jewellery and in Victorian mourning jewellery as a cheaper alternative to black enamel.

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