Which materials are typical of mourning cufflinks?

Historically: onyx, jet (see Jet (Gagate)), black enamel on gold (see Black Enamel (Schwarzemail)), black Tahitian pearl, garnet cabochons. The heads are usually round, oval or square and unobtrusive in size (10–18 mm). Matt black and muted anthracite dominate. Lustre, pale colours and visible diamonds were excluded by Victorian mourning etiquette.

What fastening mechanisms were there?

Three mechanisms dominate. The chain fastening - two heads joined by a short gold chain, one of which is pushed through the buttonhole. Classic, stable, somewhat awkward to put on. The toggle fastening - a hinged bar on the reverse, more modern and easier to handle. The post fastening - a thin post with a screw nut, very formal and rare in the nineteenth century. Modern pieces generally use the toggle fastening.

Can personalised remembrance cufflinks be made today?

Yes. Specialised workshops offer several paths of personalisation. Engraving on the reverse of the heads (initials, date of death, a short motto). A relic setting with an inset fingerprint element or a microscopically small ash capsule. A choice of symbol in the design of the front (cross, anchor, weeping willow, angel's wing). The heads are small, so the personalisation must be visually restrained - which is part of their elegance.

Mourning Cufflinks

Mourning cufflinks are discreet, soberly mounted cufflinks in black, onyx or matt gold which belonged in the nineteenth century to a gentleman's formal mourning toilette, and which live on today as a personalised remembrance set with an inscription, symbol or fingerprint.

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